It's at least a '67, with that style side trim.

If it has the snazzy 3-spoke steering wheel, it's a '68 (vs. the earlier 2 spoke design).

If it has a B20 it's a '69.

I don't see vents on the rear fenders, so it's not a '70 1800E, with the discs al the way around and fuel injection.

Since it's not an 'E', then 122 wheels would work on it. 122 wheels might be narrower, but they'd fit the same. I think stock wheels on 1800's, 123GT's, and wagons were wider.

As for rust - well, 1800's like to rust. And they're hard to fix. They have a complex body structure than contains numberous little hidden cavities where moisture and (around hree) road salt likes to collect. And to make matters worse, the front fenders are welded on and ahrd to replace. On the plus side, it's built like a tank, like the 122 and 140. So it can handle a fair amount of corrosion without physically falling apart. But repaiting them beomces economically unviable at some point, unless you have the tools and skills and time to invest in it, and you'd rather do that than spend a relatively modest amount of money on getting another 1800 that isn't rusted to bits.

But the rust prone areas:
- as on all old Volvo's - the sills. Connected to the cowl, fresh air was supposed to flow through them on the road and keep them aired out. But eventually small leaves and dust would block the drain holes, at which point it just gave water an easy access path to the sills. At which point it rapidly transitions from a benefit to a liability and the sills rust out.
- Front jacking spars - a sort of leading indicator of 1800 rust levels. The subframe that runs under the front floorboards, and (if the car has lived in Arid-zona it's whole life ;) has a little metal cup on the bottom for the jack to fit into. If that's there, and intact, and not just replaced, it bodes well...
- Front fenders - the back edge, the bottom edge behind the front wheels, around the headlights. All little crevices that attract and hold road grime and promote corrosion. There's also a long seam that runs the entire length of the fender, that seals the fender area from a long slot between the outer fender and the inner fender, where the two both reach towrd the middle of the car to the hood opening. If that seal fails, rust will erupt along the entire length of the fender along the hood opening.
- Front subframing - usually seems to rust from the forward tips where the bumper mounts backwards. First the bumper mounts fall off, then the sway bar mounts.
- Under the battery is always a good spot for rust.
- Around the rear wheel arches
- notable mention for the gas tank - the trunk itself is inset, rain water falling into the gap is supposed to drain through two small tubes in the corners, these are easily blocked and water then leaks past the trunk seal into the trunk. Where it gets under the rubber mat and stays for a long time. This can rust the top of the fuel tank, usually forming small pinholes and releasing gas fumes. In addition to that, earlier cars (-69?) had the gas filler mounted on top of the rear fender, instead of on the side as with the last E and ES cars. Same situation as with the trunk, theres a little drain, when it gets blocked water leaks into the tank and rusts it internally.
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'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)