Hello again Anil,

I have to say, you are making me sorry that I ever mentioned or open the Pandora box per say.
It was not right for me to short cut the use of proper trouble shooting techniques on this car when I did not completely understand that this car is not a 1960's car or motorcycle.
I sure wish you would just forget trying my idea of just swaping around wires and get with the present program of following the posts that have been very descriptive on how to trouble shoot your car. The information is all in this thread you started a long time ago.

The power stage and the way in is wired into the coil circuit, does not work the way as I described for you to check. To make it worse we are not using instruments to help us.

When I actually tried to do the experiment, as I suggested, I used a separate coil straight to the battery. I got a meager or weak spark to jump from the coil wire.
The Power Stage plays a more important part in getting the higher voltage up in this car.
I have learned better from our own Uncle Art Benstein posts.
Another thing in one of his posts is he has never found a power stage to be defective.
If you look for this information it's in this thread already and he states most of the time it's a connection issue there or elsewhere.

In your case, you are saying that you removed the ground from the coil that goes through the harness and back to the power stages grounding point.

So this method you are trying, in our way of thinking, leaves voltage coming into the coil from the ignition switch, when it is on.
If this was so and if you had a voltmeter or a test light, you could tell us if it was true or not. A clue would be nice.

If you have current "really there" and if you substituted your "own" ground wire back to the negative post you should at least have a spark. In that would be only a 12 volt one, just to the coils terminal and to the ground wire.
Current should have flowed through the primary side of the coil. This should put a magnetic field in there. When disconnected that field should collapse in to the secondary and spark the coil wire to ground. That how it is suppose to work.
Do we both get that, yes!

In reality, I was shown, a weak one. Why not more? Because, I did not understand the complete purpose of a condenser.
In our case a 1991 Power Stage. It must be the way of controlling the discharge and apparently it is modified.
It's not just a opening a blank wire or having a condenser protecting breaker points from arcing on older coils. These coils must be made different to put out more spark or a better spark dwell.
It's a 125 year old technology that has evolved from the 60's only a wee bit coil wise with better controllers.

We are working with the cars unknown condition of the system. Bets are going down on a losing here.
You have no meters and know nothing about how the system on how it's suppose to work according to the designers.
In my bench experiment, I knew I was sparking in places I was suppose too with 4.5 amperes worth going in. Can you say that, No!

So no meters, no safe to use test lights and now it's down to "A Guess and By Golly " post again! (:-(
Who knows what wrong where? With that I will use a mathematical term of analogy, you and I, are doing the "Square One" thing! (00.000)

You can only help yourself by reading over the posts from Art and doing what he SHOWS YOU.
If you need that test light get one. I'm sure a multimeter is a even a better choice as I cannot do a thing without one. Trust me it's not that tough to learn about.

Until you do these things, you and I, as a couple guys, trying to fix "your" car are losing out.
The Board is only as good as the users and players. You decide how you want to play, not me.
As I said before, "The information is all in this thread you started a long time ago."

I will keep watching to see what you find.
Phil