Hi Dan,

Th only thing that I know about the start position of the ignition switch is that, in the old days, it used to bypass the ballast resistor.
This was so the coil got all the juice left in the system when the starter was in use.
A ballast resistor was there to decrease the current across the ignition points while in the run position.

I’m pretty sure that the newer electronic systems with transistors handle such current loads without the arcing that went on with those points and condenser needs.

Whether or not ballast are used today or not is beyond me!
I hear occasionally that some coils are special on these Volvos but I personally haven’t seen it.
I have noticed various replacement coils will note it being “internal” but to be used on what ignition systems, I have no idea.

So you are saying this engine is now, “dead in the water” with the key in No.2 the run position.
It is hitting and running poorly in No.3 the starting position?

Weird ignition issue I will say!
Something seems a miss with the coil connections and the power relay behind the battery?
Something’s broken or wired wrong all right!
Check the power relays actual base and the connector onto it.
I have one that was cracked before I got the car.
I found it while I was servicing it for corrosion.
I ended up wire tying back up tight due to one of the side clips broke off.
I ran the ties underneath and around under the connector.
It works fine, I just haven’t gotten around to replacing, what works, yet! (:)

I hope my brain skimming help you find something soon!

I’m wrestling with a starter solenoid issue myself.
It use to failed to engage after the engine was hot. AAA would jump it and it fired right up!
Goes eight months and it did it again.
Of course, I let it set for six of those months for a summer time rest. I had my warning!

I shared my conundrum with a local rebuilder and he advised me to put on a BOSCH relay system to the starter solenoid.
He says the solenoid doesn’t get enough voltage from Volvos ignition and clutch switch system?
I put that on to the tune of about Fifty Bucks! List $71.
I have the kit number, if anyone is so stupid as I!
One 30 amp Bosch relay with a socket, a 15 amp fuse holder and three wires!
No loom but a Bosch labeled bag with BOLD printing and illustrated instructions!

Now instead of not cranking, it cranks and keeps running, sounding like a vacuum cleaner!
That is until I pull the negative cable!
It stuck on twice out of five repeated starts!
It did that once before in the car before I pulled it.
The rebuilder tested it for me. Clamped only in a vise and said it was good!

I think the motor load draws more on an engine.
The whole solenoid has now gone totally bonkers, up inside the contact plate box.
Talk about breaking down slowly!

There’s no repairing it, but it’s going to get ripped, if and when, I can find one to buy somewhere?
Any suggestions guys! I’ll probably have to go to Napa or a MACYS department store like an AutoZone?
The rebuilder will only order them so I guess he doesn’t even want to stock them!
He said 1990’s use a planetary gear made of metal. No more parts!
He said if it blows up throw it away!
I like this guy, but he didn’t say what he would want for ONE solenoid either!
I can only imagine!

If too hard, I will put an older Direct Drive Motor unit on of an 1980’s cars!
I have never had a problem like this before. These 1990 to 1993’s are different!

Anyways, that’s my story to go along with your pain and suffering, Dan!
It’s A real knee buster for me having to play with this!
I’m in the wrong home without my car lift!!
DARN ole’ wet winters, anyhow!

Phil