Hi again,

I've had a left front sticky brake/caliper (Girling non ABS) some time back. Found out that the caliper pin was seized due to (don't know how) indentations/grooves on the pin. My mechanic did a thorough inspection and had this replaced

Left caliper pins (right side was OK then)
Both brake hoses left and right replaced. One of left hose was blocked.
There was rust behind one of the left pistons. Both front calipers were rebuilt using new seals rubber boots etc.
New front pads - the left inner pad was down to bare metal

Now yesterday I rotated my tyres and noticed my right front wheel sticky. My first thought was the caliper pin so I I replaced those. Took the car for a spin. Checked again ... right front wheel still draging! Took off the wheel and checked the caliper and found that the I could not push the piston in. Weird. Unhooked the caliper and a clear as daylight the piston was exposed with the dust boots covering only the outer edges of the piston. These boots should cover ALL the piston right? It seems that one lip / side of boots was not attached to caliper bore as it's supposed to. It was just hanging on the outer lip.

I'm reluctant to take it back to the same guy. If he can't get it right first time why would he now. And that was only 3 months ago ...

Help is needed .. boots look Ok. No rust on piston surface as I could see. Can I get it in back again easily without removing the piston. I've searched the archives and someone mentioned doing this on a 850 caliper. Wondered if it's possilble with a Girling?

The brickboard's wisdom much needed. Thanks

Aslan,(are you related to THE Aslan,numero ono EPF)Just been to Malaysia,and could not believe the cheap mecahnics' rate there.If I live there,I would not be diy-ing myself.e.g.Headliner for a Mercedes Benz,parts and labour,30US$,40 Canadian$!!!!!!I bought a set of HRD alloys there for my MB,333 C$.Wow.Next time,I will buy the old set of oem Volvo wheels I saw,for 150C$.100US$.Much cheaper than ebay.

Anyway,I found that that you have to use a plastic cap ( I use one off a urine specimen bottle) and a c-clamp to press the inside lip in(the outer lip of the dust boot facing the disc sits in a groove.)

Seems to have worked for the last two months.I had the same problem as you had.Stuck caliper pin on one side,driver's side/

I will probably buy a rebuilt set of calipers shortly .If I had to do it again,I will def buy rebuilt calipers rather than diy

I recently rebuilt my front Girling calipers and it was not possible without popping the piston. This is a 93 940 w/o ABS with a one piston caliper and I don't know how different they are from the 740.
But it was a bear to first put the lower lip of the boot in a slot in the caliper bore and then putting in the piston. First caliper took me about two hours, second was about half an hour.
On my rear ATE brakes it is possible to replace the boots without popping the piston.
Sounds like the only way to tell is to remove caliper and carefully examine it.

Hope this helps
Mikael Larsson

The Girling on my 740 is a 2 piston per caliper type. One piston is dificult enough, imagine doing 4 pistons at a go. My mechanic was swearing by the 3rd piston due to the same problem you encountered. Problem here in Malaysia is I can't yet seem to find rebuilt calipers as described by fellow brickboards in US. The mechanics I've asked says they have to rebuild it themselves. Hence the quality I guess varies. The seals and boots etc are readily available though. Anyway thanks for your input. By the way if you had to do it again would you rebuild it again or get a rebulit caliper?

If I had to do it again right now I would rebuild it. Now I know how to do
it :-). The rebuilt caliper kit from Volvo was about 180$ / each and the dust boot kit was only about 42$ here in Sweden.
You have to put some disc brake grease on the boot and piston to make it slide in easily. I use Lucas red grease.
But the next time for the same calipers, probably in about 5 years I think it's time for a new caliper.

Mikael Larsson