I would really like to know HOW you intend to get the string to touch both sidewalls of the tire given that the track width is NOT identical front and rear.

Front = 143 cm 56.3"
Rear = 136 cm 53.5"
(according to both Bentley and Volvo Owners Manual)

There is NO such vehicle that has identical track widths if it is intended to alter its course over 10mph. Automakers have confirmed and applied the inertia/yaw/centre of gravity rule to all models. FWD cars have a closer track difference compared to RWD. Even 4x4/AWD cars use a different track width. All this prevents excessive roll when the weight of the vehicle has traversed from one portion to another during cornering. NEVER NEVER compare the front to rear.

If you really want to get this done "right" in you own driveway try what i preform in any parking lot on my lifted Tahoe after a trail ride:

TOE-IN
*Steel Tape measure
*Calculator and pencil/paper
*Proper tools for adjusting tie rods
*Assistant or Duct tape, eek!

In level parking lot (concrete) come to a stop with plenty of room in front of you. Accelerate to 15mph and let the vehicle coast to a "natural stop" with wheel centered. DO NOT APPLY BRAKES!

Provided you have identical tires record the following measurements:
- dist. from the outer rain channel of one tire to corresponding channel on the other tire. Do this twice. Once in the front portion of tire then in the rear portion. Get as high from the concrete as possible! Assistant may be needed or the duct tape can work just as well.
- dist. from same channel to the outer vertical edge of the frame rail (wheelwell) AT the the height of the axle.
- Dist of EXPOSED threads on both inner tie rods.

Now take the two channel>channel distances and add them, then divide by 2. This is your goal track width and is also your "check" dimension.

Take the rail>channel distances and compare. By subtracting the lowest from the highest and dividing by 2 = (x) you can tell which needs to be adjusted in or out. Using (x) as your distance needed if the measurement taken in the front of the tire was the highest you would need to draw the outer tie rod inward.
If it has to be moved inwards you can keep track of your adjustment by simply measuring from the last thread of the innter tie rod to the adjusting nut on the outer. Subtract (x) from the exposed thread measurement and that is your stopping point for that tire.

Constantly keep checking yourself to the goal track width.
This DOES take practice and is not in any way a one time adjustment.

Tim

--
1992 - 244 - AW70 "Soft Ride" / 1987 - 244 - M47 (Hydra, turbo bars, bilstein, urethane bushings - now deceased)