Repairman,

I was reading what I wrote about the ballast resistor and it does not read well. If you find the coil is at least 3.2 Ohms, you won't need this. But if you do need it:

The ballast resistor is installed between the START-RUN (15) terminal of the key switch and the (16) terminal of the starter solenoid. The "another" wire I mentioned runs from the coil (15) terminal down to the same (16) terminal on the starter solenoid.

When the key is moved to the START position, the (30) terminal and (50) terminal of the key switch are made internally. Battery voltage is supplied to the starter solenoid (50) terminal. The solenoid pulls in connecting the (16) terminal to the (50) terminal internally and battery voltage is supplied directly to the coil (15) terminal.

When the key goes back to RUN, the solenoid relaxes, opening the (16)/(50) connection. The other wire connected to the (16) terminal pulls current from the battery, through the keyswitch (15)/(30) connection and the ballast resistor (dropping the voltage according to Ohm's Law), and passes the now reduced voltage to the (15) terminal of the coil.

A diagram reads better than the explanation. Let me know if you need one and I'll find or make one for you.

EDIT***

Revision 3

Last I recall you were running an ignition amplifier. The concept is the same but, if your coil is less than 3.2 Ohms, you will have to either replace it with one that has resistance greater than 3.2 Ohms (best option) or, you will have to put a ballast resistor in series with the (15) terminal of the coil from the ignition amplifier.

Now that I think about it, a low Ohm coil would also explain why your Allison unit was overheating.

--
Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- I've taken to using mister because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 52 year old fat man.