Hello,

Oh have you hit on a sore subject at my shop this week.

We did the same thing last week, but with a 1971 1800e.

We spent ALL WEEK trying to bleed this car, using every method you described.

1st, we found that the front calipers had been assembled incorrectly. We originally assumed the rebuilder did it, but I found another core caliper in my collection that was also assembled wrong.

After getting the calipers put together right, we still had air in the system, so we went to the green book and discovered Volvos bleeding instructions.

We were already using the proper bleeding sequence for a 1800e(140/160/240 bleeding sequence is different even though the same calipers are used because the lines are reveresed at the brake master), but Volvo also recommends that you lift the back end of the car slightly and to pump the pedal multiple times at each bleeder, with the bleeder open.

Our normal procedure is to pump pressure up and then open the bleeder, push the pedal to the floor, then close the bleeder with the pedal still depressed.

We took one additional step and that was to by special bleeder valves from Earls that have a check valve built into them, because the rebuilder replaced my bleeder valves with the wrong thread and we were worried that air would be sucked back in while pumping the pedal while using Volvos bleeding procedure. It cost almost $50.00 just for the special bleeder valves, but we finally got a good pedal after almost a week of trying to bleed.


--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90501