No - that uses a different temp sensor (back by the oil filter) that jsut turns on and off and is only activated when the starter is cranking. A wire leads from the starter, through the thermal switch near the filter, and to the cold start valve.

The coolant temp sensor is on the right side of the head at the front. It tells the FI brain how warm the car is, and when the engine is cold it needs to run rich. If the sensor fails the computer thinks it is cold all the time.
Get a multimeter and test the resistance with the engine cold. Then start it up until it reaches operating temp and test it again. It should be within the ranges shown in this link:
http://www.icbm.org/erkson/ttt/engine/fuel_injection/d-jet.html
About 3000 - 5000 ohms when cold, down to about 1000 when warm. When they fail it is usually in the open mode, so the brain thinks the engine is very cold.

The manifold pressure sensor is the little gadget mounted to the right of the engine and connected to the manifold by a rubber hose. It measures the 'barometric' pressure in the manifold. Using a fixed model - the brain combines this information with the air temp (cold air is denser) to determine how much air is going into each cylinder, and thus how long to open the injectors each engine revolution (simplisticly enough they fire in pairs once per revolution, so one squirt goes against a closed intake valve, the next on the intake stroke). If the air pressure sensor is out of whack the brain will think there is more air pressure in the manifold than there is, and squirt in more air. I just noticed that my link doesn't have the specs on what it should read at idle (with significant vacuum) vs with the engine shut off (normal atmo pressure).