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Most of these remote starters or alarms or remote locking units have a very limited current output on their signal leads (ie: 200ma). Usually the instructions caution you to avoid any connection method that risks exceeding this current. This won't operate the lock actuators, the starter, the parking lights or much of anything, but could ruin your unit if you try. So you need relays.
The central locks in your 240 are already driven by relays - one for locking, one for unlocking. These relays respond to GROUND signals from the driver's door switches (your wiring diagrams will show you). Most alarms/starter rigs have two output wires for lock/unlock. When one of these wires is grounded by the unit, the other goes to +12V. No worries; the +12V pulse will have no effect on the Volvo relay(s) - they respond only to the ground pulse.
If you want the driver's door to have a power lock setup, you need to get an actuator from the junkyard (any door - they can be reversed by swapping the mount bracket) and the linkage rods from a passenger side rear door.
I got a remote setup for my daughter's 240 which has a driver's door priority unlock. This required a separate relay for the unlock wire to that door's actuator, but the 'lock' wire is spliced to the original lock relay so all doors lock at once when signalled. One press on the remote - driver's door unlocks...second press - the others unlock.
They sure seem to be selling a lot of those remote starters, but I'm old school and don't like the idea of starting an engine when I'm not in the car.
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Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F, dtr's 83-244DL B23F, 'my' 94-944 B230FD; plus grocery-getter Dodge minivan, hobbycar 77 MGB, and numerous old motorcycles)
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