Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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Stroker Cranks. 140-160

I'm interested to hear what sort of rod lengths, rod ratios & BE Bearing sizes you use in street & race engines that you have had the most luck with.

I'd love to see a picture of one of those billet stroker cranks too, any chance of that?

Have stayed away from the welded stroker crank in the belief that the reliability is not there when you are doing a lot of them. Too dependent on varying skills.

Yep, we broke the 90mm welded crank at the 4th BE, cracks started from the L cutouts that Volvo machine on the crank arms. We ground big radii in the next one which we made 89mm because at 90mm we had to do so much clearence of the block that we broke into the oil gallery.

A fair # of strokers have been done using an offset grind with a smaller journal, often a 1.77 as in the Topi kit with a 5.9 rod, but there was a questionable record of reliability.

I think the Topi stroker would be more reliable than a welded crank, I'd like to build one myself as there is a cheap piston I can get here that is 91.1mm that has the perfect compression height & a small bowl. Custom pistons are out of the question for me, I like budget racing.

I have others who would really like a large displacement engine but adding a custom made race quality crank to the cost puts it out of reach.

They could always try a Topi style stroker & see what happens. The 91.1mm pistons I mention above are quality ACL hypereutectic castings & comes in oversizes from 0.5 to +1.5mm.

92x92 sounds neat, but how much more stroke can you get in with rod style you are using? I'd rather not exceeed 90.5mm bore, then you don't have the hassle of non-stock gaskets sizes & thin bores.

Paul.










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New dumb crank question [140-160]
posted by  jparker3  on Tue Jun 21 10:00 CST 2005 >


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