The job is done. I took several hours, but have concluded that it's really quite straightforward. There actually is adequate room to work (even for my oversize hands) as long as the coolant and power steering reservoirs are out of the way. No bolts and screws left over, and the car runs fine. There is one difference; I hear more noise from the front of the engine while driving, but maybe the new serpentine belt needs to wear in a bit.

Really, the hardest part was getting the new serpentine belt on. My car requires a 14mm wrench to work the tensioner; I ended up tying a piece of 1/4" nylon rope to the wrench to pull on after I got the box end on the tensioner bolt.

I could imagine experienced techs doing a basic timing belt and tensioner change in about an hour.