Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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Engine teardown. 120-130

If a cylinder has scoring the only satisfactory repair is new pistons and a re-bore.

If the lifters are pitted they are scrap (they will be), likelyhood is the camshaft is too, replace cam and all 8 lifters. Remember to remove the spacer ring from the cam before you bin it.

Bottom end bolts will be fine, do check the headbolts for pitting and stretching, most are fine some are not.

Exhaust valves are high quality and most are re-usable, replace valve springs as a mater of course. Check the valve guides if they are worn replacement is the cure, or a bronze liner, knurling is a waste of time. You only need hardened exhaust valve seats. Cam bearings are often as new even on high mileage engines.

Head is unlikely to need skimming, but do check it. Its worth using new manifold studs, they break, especially the end ones.

Never seen an aluminium timing gear kit, fibre or steel, fibre is perfectly adequate. Original Volvo is now steel check the oil sprayer isn't blocked.

I doubt the crank will need work unless the engine hasn't been oil changed in living memory or run out of oil. Thrust face wear is unheard of in a red block.

Rods pretty much never need anything doing.

If the flywheel is resurfaced make sure the clutch has dowel pins after, some shops skim them off or forget to put them back, your clutch will judder.

The ones that have been left out are oil pump, get a good quality one, disassemble it and check the relief valve. Check the oil pump delivery pipe, I've seen them split, though not often.

Reinforcing ring for the oil pump drive on the distrubutor gear, and check the distributor drive, they can fail.

If you're going to spend that get a recored 3 row radiator and a new qualty waterpump + hoses.

People tend to use Late style (B30 or B21 B23 B230) neoprene oil seals, the rear you need a kit with the aluminium housing, for the front the timing cover needs machining. It requires careful installation, they are much less forgiving than the felt seals and there are no dowels to locate the housings, worth doing, but if its done badly its worse than the original.

New spigot bearing for sure, 3 piece clutch kit if at all worn.

Check the rocker gear for wear, check the pushrods are straight.

The life of the new engine is dependent on cleanliness, even if the shop cleans everything, and the should,spend a significant amount of time cleaning oil ways, block, ETC ETC ETC, then when its perfect do it again.

Use a decent torque wrench.






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New Engine teardown. [120-130]
posted by  someone claiming to be mariom  on Wed Jan 3 07:07 CST 2007 >


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