Sounds like a good price to me.

I'd have hardened valve seats put in the exhaust valves. Very little point in having new valves put in on old valve seats. Sooner or later (probably sooner if the valves are ground) you wear through the hardened layer in the head and then the exhaust valves start receding fairly quickly and you need to readjust every 1500 miles. I wouldn't bother with changing the valve springs, unless you are going to put in something non-stock as a replacement.

Based on my experience with cams, I'd use a new one, use new lifters either way. I don't have any experience with the aluminum gear, I picked up a used set of steel gears on eBay for $30 and used them in mine (looked perfect). Might as well spend a little extra here and remove one of the B20's few weak points. Although to be honest over the years I've had 3 lobes go flat vs. only one fiber cam gear failure. I'm using Isky Chevy SBC lifters and tubular pushrods in mine (actually ordered a set for an 'Iron Duke' 4 cylinder, which is half of an SBC). Use the opportunity to spice up the motor a little with a peppier cam. Stock Volvo 'D' grind if nothing else.

Never had an issue with the thrust surfaces on the crank.
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'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic 245 + turbo