And, as usual, before spending time diagnosing 'FI faults' double check that the ignition system and valvetrain is all working properly before tinkering with the FI system. It should be the last system you check.

1) Set the point gap, clean the plugs, set the timing.

2) Set the valve lash. Possibly quickly measure the valve opening on all 8 valves to ensure there isn't a flat lobe (it won't be a subtle difference if it is enough to cause a problem)

A quick shade tree way to check the injectors is to undo all 4 sheet metal injector collars, give each injector a little wiggle to unstick it from its seat, and pull the fuel rail back a couple of inches with all wires and hoses still attached. Turn the key on a few times, without cranking, and leave it on. Go up by the engine and watch the injectors as you pull the throttle open slowly by hand. They should fire in pairs. Just visually look at the spritz coming out of each injector. Shouldn't be a dribble, and they should all be equal in volume (to the eye - this isn't a good test of flow, just a quick check to rule out a gross malfunction). Often, if a car hasn't run for a while an injector or two will stick shut. To revive a stuck injector, --gently-- push the little pin in the tip in with something small. Once broken shut they usually start to work again the the fresh gas washes away the gum that was sticking it. Alternatively, when the throttle isn't opening there shouldn't be any drips or dribbling from any injector.

You also need to check your fuel pressure - you can pull the hose off the cold start valve and hook it to a gauge. The proper pressure is 28psi, although that can be varied slightly to tune the car. To high or too low and it will affect the mixture.