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"I will check all procedures in Bentley re AMM."
The generally accepted test for a bad AMM is to disconnect it and try starting. If it starts and idles (better and longer than it did), then the AMM is assumed to be bad, and you are in "Limp Home Mode". (Try driving and you'll know where the "limp" comes from.)
I've never spent much time this way, but it may improve after warming up. Just a guess.
As for the Bentley tests, it's been said that no one ever found a bad AMM with an ohmmeter. But a Voltmeter, on the other hand, may tell you something.
1) Unplug the AMM and peel back the rubber boot to expose the wires and connector ends.
2) Reconnect the plug and "back-probe" the Red-White wire contact with the VM.
3) Turn the Key On II and look for at least 1.2 volts.
4) if it will start and idle, the voltage should go up to about ~2.2V.
Maybe just "exercising" the AMM connector plug will clean a bad contact, but I'm wondering what we're chasing here — to go from no-spark and 1-1-1 codes to an AMM 1-2-1 code and (apparently) a working ignition???
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Bruce Young '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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