MBC - manual boost controller: The factory setup is a rubber hose from the compressor housing to the wastegate actuator, and the wastegate actuator is built to actuate and open the wastegate (bypassing the turbo in the exhaust stream) at a preset PSI. Usually something like 7 psi. A boost controller just modifies that pressure signal so that it regulates to a higher PSI. Like 10, 12, 15, 20 psi.

Ford browntops: Cheap, fairly common junkyard injectors that fit right into the space vacated by the stock volvo injectors. They flow more fuel, but are within the range that LH 2.4 can adjust for (without it getting worried and lighting a CEL). It allows a stock ECU to keep up with more boost than it was designed to handle. Go too far, and you'll either need to chip the Bosch unit or replace it with something else like Megasquirt.

And another point that I sort of alluded to in my previous post but didn't make explicitly: You can make a 200 - 250 hp N/A motor, John Parker sells his 'monster' 2.5L b20's that make in the neighborhood of 250 HP. But that's chock full of expensive parts. And (heaven forbid) you do something a bit sill and over zing it, or the oil pump fails, or whatever, and you fry the engine, that's a huge financial cost. But a 250 - 300 HP B230FT motor can still be running on a totally stock engine and head (maybe a cam and HG swap). And should something go horribly wrong, which can happen when you are wringing a small motor so hard, you have just blown up nothing more than a pretty common junkyard occurence. $250 - $500 or so and you can have another B230FT shortblock/longblock under your hood again and be back to beating up Camaros in no time without spending another $5K.
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'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t