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No, I didn't degree the cam. The 40's are running 36mm chokes, which didn't work well at all with the stock F head, but work very nicely with the better flowing R head. And I have a couple of D-Jet manifolds laying around, I test fit it on the motor last time the carbs were off and it didn't fit - the front part interferes with the tapered front end of the engine compartment. that and the R-sport head isn't drilled for injectors, and I didn't want to pay $800 each for DCOE style throttle bodies. It is just an old PV, it would have been neat to inject it, but I decided not to spend more money on it. It works well enough as is.
"How much boost are you at?"
It was fairly warm that night (for October in MO at least, 90 degrees), and I was having trouble getting it to run cleanly, so I had turned the boost down slightly. Probably around 16 - 17 psi on the fastest run. I figure when I can get it to pull cleanly at higher boost, like 20 - 22 psi I can get it into the 13's. My next step is to pep up the ignition system a little, so I can widen out the plug gaps a little again (down to .027 now).
Another problem I have with running higher boost levels is boost spike. I'm going to try and help that by taking off the 8 psi WG actuator and putting on an 18psi unit, so the MBC can get turned *way* down, or even removed. Which will hopefully help settle it down a little. I don't get boost creep at all, so the WG must open far enough and be large enough, but it just spools up too fast for the WG to react and prevent a little spike. When it spikes over 24 psi or so i get a nasty bog, not sure if that is ignition related or MS overboost protection related. And that's another thing I need to do, replace the 2.5 bar MAP in the MS with a 3.5 bar unit. And maybe start thinking about a water injection kit.
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'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t
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